Thanks for the info on the "Clay Source" topic. I had noticed that you had referenced I307 as your clay of choice for the scale model as well as the Corvette project. Seeing that I am on a serious budget, and I don't have any allergic reactions (that I know of) to any of the clays that Chavant offers - What would you recommend as the most cost effective clay for modeling body components such as a facia or fender (full size)?
I realize that clay selection is very subject and everyone has their own tastes; therefore, I will sample (in small quantity) your recommendation before making the full order. I could order Chavant's sample package, but rather than sort through all those clays I am opting to rely on your expert opinion and experience in an effort to save time.
Post by Steve Austin on Jan 22, 2006 6:34:21 GMT -8
I have used several clays from Chavant www.chavant.com/index_main.shtml over my modeling career, I307, J525 and CM50. The CM50 is known as a medium hard styling clay and tends to be easier to work with if you are doing a lot of free form shapes. The J525 is a harder styling clay with similar properties being light brown in color. I307 has similar working properties as the CM50 having the same density factor but it also has a reduced sulfur content, a higher wax content and a lower working temperature (120 degrees F)
What this means in real terms is, sulfur can be annoying to some people when the clay is heated to the working temperature. If you use a clay with a reduced sulfur content the smell will not be as strong. With the I307 there is also the addition of a higher wax content which helps to reduce model cracking. Cracking can occur for several reasons,
1. The underlying armature is moving. i.e. The foam joints are not bonded sufficiently therefore move with temperature change. 2. The clay is not applied correctly. i.e. Putting it on in large amounts without blending the previous clay to create a continuous skin.
If you are working in an environment where temperature change is an issue i.e. Your garage, such as I will be when I get around to the Corvette project, then by using I307 at least there will be a chance of getting away crack free.
If you want a totally sulfur free clay with the added bonus of being light weight compared to the other clays then maybe Y2Klay would be the way to go. It is up to 40% lighter but will need a higher working temperature (135 degrees F) This means the cost for shipping will be reduced so this could be a factor depending on your supplier location.
When I talk about working temperature, all industrial clays need to be heated in a warming oven such as you see at a fast food restaurant. By warming the clay to the required temperature it makes it pliable and easy to spread onto the surface. Once hard it can be scraped and worked to the form of your choice.
Well Basil, I hope this helps you with trying to reduce the choices.
As usual, you have provided a wealth of information. I have heard of the cracking issue and for that reason, I may opt for I307 vs CM50. All things considered, if the end result is not impacted and a considerable amount of cost is reduced I will put up with sulfur stink from the CM50...
Best Regards and thanks for being an inspiration to us "wanna be serious" modelers.
P.S. I recently corresponded with Brandon Smisek, he in collaboration with Boyd Coddington's guys designed the 31 Ford extreme gravity racer. I had a glimpse of the vehicle on the show "American Hot Rod". Interestingly enough, Brandon modeled the scale body in clay and did an awesome job!
Post by Steve Austin on Jan 22, 2006 15:07:58 GMT -8
As a point of interest, Brandon has worked with my wife on several projects when she was a lead modeler at Honda R&D in Torrance, California before we had children. Just goes to show how small a community clay modeling is.
After calculating the required clay for my project (approx 2.5 cases @ 48 pounds each), the cost of the I307 wasn't that bad at $163 per case. Especially, given the hard material and sanding alternative.