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Post by prabhat on Feb 14, 2005 8:00:32 GMT -8
Happy Valentines Day to everyone!!! I have been lazy this week and do not have much to show.......so wait for a few days
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Post by Steve Austin on Feb 20, 2005 15:09:46 GMT -8
OK, Guys, Here are the additional images for quickly blocking in the roof and windshield profile. This image shows the centerline profile marked onto a template and extended beyond the base of windshield and beyond the rear header. The centerline of the front and rear wheel are marked onto the template for easier alignment. The strip of plywood is attached to the template and the whole assembly is fixed to the modeling board with double sided tape using the centerline of wheels for correct positioning. You will need two templates exactly the same for this process but the plywood strip needs to be fixed on the opposite side for the second template. The roof profile is traced from the master drawing, make sure to mark on a centerline. Extend the main roof curve beyond the roof rails. Mark from the centerline on the roof template, the distance to the side templates. Measure the drop-off of the curve from the centerline to the inside of the side templates. Notch out both sides of the roof template so that it sits on top of the side templates. The notch out represents the centerline of the vehicle. Apply your clay and drag the profile through the roof and windshield. At a later stage the windshield wrap will have to be addressed but for now the main bulk of clay has been applied. Hopefully I've explained it reasonably clear but if not, post a message and I'll give it another shot. Best of luck, Steve A
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Post by Prabhat on Feb 21, 2005 5:45:52 GMT -8
ok guys i have the top surface blocked in and will be doing the side surfaces in a few days. Steve, i am using the methods given by you in the " new to Clay Modelling thread". Here are a few pics from my modelling table.
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Post by Prabhat on Feb 21, 2005 5:52:14 GMT -8
Hey Steve,
I need to talk about something to you so can i kindly have your personal E-mail ID.
You can shoot me your ID at prabhat_mahapatra@iitb.ac.in
Regards Prabhat
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 1, 2005 14:04:22 GMT -8
Steve, out of curiosity , what clay are you using for your model ? Today I bought 6 kg of Eberhard clay ( soooooooo expensive here btw ) . Medium because it's almost impossible to get some hard clay ( or only in BIG quantity ). I don't know if the details will be so crisp... ;D See you Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Mar 3, 2005 21:33:28 GMT -8
Hi Seb, The clay that I am using is Chavant I307 which was kindly donated by Jack North of Chavant. The remainder will be used in the C5 Corvette scale project at a later date. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress so keep up the good work. Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 14, 2005 9:17:18 GMT -8
Heya, After few very busy weeks I'm now back on the C2 project at 100% ;D So don't worry guys I'll post some pics of the foam, templates etc... this week See you Seb
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 18, 2005 14:18:45 GMT -8
Hey all, Finally here I am . Here are the first pictures of the templates, cut and finished in aluminium. It takes time but everything went very well. Last week a big piece of wood has fallen right on my foot when I was preparing everything….quite painful, blood everywhere…. So now I can say I’m physically involved in the project ! ;D Now that the templates are made, my progress is going to be faster. Steve, I have prepared the modelling platform some weeks ago. Yesterday I checked if it was ok and I found that it’s not completely flat. The diagonal has a hollow of more than 1.5 mm ( the plate is 80 cm long 60cm large ). Do I have to change the platform and take a thicker one ( now it’s 18mm ) ? Is a hollow of 1,5 mm a big deal ? My question is about the relation between the hollow and the final result. I think I’m going to purchase a new platform but as you know they are never completely flat. Maybe a cross fixed under the platform would help…( like the one you’ve made in the tool section ). If I chose the cross solution, I thing it will be better to not take a very thick plywood ( 18 mm or less ) so I will be able to work with the cross settings to make the platform flat... Any advice ? And no I’m not a maniac of details !! ;D Talk soon More photos to come after the weekend. Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Mar 21, 2005 8:22:30 GMT -8
Hi Seb, It looks like you've got everything in hand. You could put a couple of battens underneath the board to try and flatten it out a little but it shouldn't influence the end result too much. Use the board with the hollow underneath and the weight of the model will flatten the board to a certain degree. With the use of battens it should also come out pretty flat. The templates are looking like a fine piece of art so I'll be interested to see the model as it developes. Keep up the good work. Hopefully we'll see some of Prabhat's handiwork soon as well. All the best, Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 22, 2005 14:08:31 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip Steve, I switched to another board made with a material that keeps its flatness better. Concerning the idea of seeing my model as it develops I’m pretty interested too ;D….. as well as seeing yours héhé. New pics this week. Thank you Seb
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 31, 2005 6:57:37 GMT -8
Hi Steve, After having spent more time than expected working on the platform, now everything is going good. I’m in the process of shaping the foam. I’ve read again your post when you were explaining it can be necessary to coat the foam surface. I’m using extruded polystyrene, not expanded and it is compact. I don’t understand what you were meaning here : “your (Prabhat’s) armature looks like bead polystyrene, if it is, you may need to coat it with a latex paint to seal it. This will stop the clay from just rolling off the surface as you apply it. You could also spray the armature with a contact glue such as Super 77 from 3M, this will also help to stop the clay from rolling off.”<br> Do I need to coat extruded compact polystyrene ? and then spray some glue ? If yes, can I use a latex pealable paint, the same used to protect the walls of spray booths ? Hopefully the latex paint won’t peal off because it will be on a sanded foam surface…<br> Thanks Seb
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 31, 2005 7:09:38 GMT -8
Here’s a picture of the water based, sprayable masking liquid I should use if you think it’s ok Steve. After that the foam should be solvent proof. Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Mar 31, 2005 8:04:57 GMT -8
Hi Seb, The foam that you are using looks fine. I don't think you will have to coat the foam with anything. Try applying clay to the foam and see how it attaches, if it needs extra grip scoop a few holes in the foam surface for the clay to grip onto. The foam that Prabhat was using is the expanded type, the packing material around new stereo components. Looking good. Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Mar 31, 2005 8:22:03 GMT -8
Ok I'll give it a try and will post some photos tomorow. Thx Seb
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Post by prabhat on Apr 1, 2005 9:12:11 GMT -8
hey guys,
sorry for the hibernation i had gone into. had a lot of workload in the college due to which the clay modelling had come to a standstill. well i'm back. so looking forward to posting some new pics and getting ur feedback.
cya Prabhat
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