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Post by prabhat on Jan 28, 2005 5:10:38 GMT -8
well said Seb!!!
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Jan 28, 2005 7:12:09 GMT -8
Steve, looking your base templates it seems that you’ve used 2mm aluminium sheets, right ? I’m asking it cause here it’s easy to find 1mm alu sheets ( but are they thick enough or do they get twisted when you work’em ? ) and the masonite type plates. The masonite is 5mm thick. It’s a good material, easy to cut and shape , but I was wondering if the thickness is important for the templates. I tend to think that the thinner it is, the best your template will be. Indeed I suppose when you drag it to an angle, the 2mm alu will be more precise than the 5 mm masonite. Finally I think I’ll make my templates out of 2mm aluminium (as I have some old sheets ) , I just think it would be interesting to know if a thicker template would limit the quality of your result ? … Prabz what will you use to make your templates ? Thx Seb Another benefit from this forum is I will improve my English ! Technical speaking is not easy, please feel free to correct me when don’t use the good word for the good object. ;D
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Post by prabhat on Jan 30, 2005 0:09:21 GMT -8
I am not able to decide. Even I was thinking of making it out of sheet metal- aluminium or MS. But even i was in a dilemma if it would be strong enough. i guess i'll try both metal and wood :-)
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Post by prabhat on Jan 30, 2005 8:46:07 GMT -8
Here are some pics from the first skin coating that i gave to seal off the thermocol model
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Post by prabhat on Jan 30, 2005 8:56:24 GMT -8
Some more Pics Will upload pics of templates soon... cya
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Post by Steve Austin on Jan 30, 2005 21:57:52 GMT -8
OK Guys, The templates that you see at the base of the model are 3.0mm-1/8" masonite/hardboard templates with tracing paper glued to them. The tracing paper was used to duplicate the shape straight from the master drawing. Use tracing paper to transfer all your main shapes for making the templates, then you'll get exactly the same as the drawing to start off with. I used the masonite as you can cut it easily on the bandsaw. You can use aluminum if you want but it will take a little longer to file to shape. As far as strength, the masonite is plenty strong enough, it's dragged through the clay as soon as it is applied so the clay is still warm. There may be a little shrinkage but you just apply more clay until the surface is complete. When dragging the profile template against the ground template make sure that it is at 90 degrees to the shape then it will always cut with the leading edge. Prabhat it looks like you've made a good start. You may find that when you check your model with the templates that you could be knocking off the corners again, they look very square at the moment. Take a look at the images that I supplied, you will see that I used the templates to gauge the thickness of the clay as well as to check that there was no foam interference before applying the clay. Best check before applying any more clay. As I said in an earlier post, I'll be putting up some more images very soon . It's all looking good so keep up the great work. Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Feb 1, 2005 1:08:34 GMT -8
WAIT ME GUYS !!! ;D ;D ;D
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Feb 1, 2005 1:14:56 GMT -8
I take a little more time as I needed to prepare the setup and all the stuff. I'm starting the foam model tomorow, I think it will be finished before saturday. I will post pics of course. See ya Seb
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Feb 1, 2005 4:23:13 GMT -8
Steve, I suppose the thickness of the base block is not really important, as long as I make adjustments on the templates. The height between the floor and the lower point of the model has to be enough to allow me to place 1/10 wheels. But if this distance is more than enough, the wheels won’t touch the floor when put in the correct position... Should I care about that ? I suppose the goal is to have the good distance for the model to look “natural” when the wheels touch the floor. I’m just wondering if it’s a problem if you sculpt a C2 model closer to the floor because of a thinner base block ! In a typical US lowrider fashion ( please note it’s not my intention ! Curious about the technical modelling issue ) ! ;D What do you think master ?! Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Feb 1, 2005 12:39:57 GMT -8
Hi Seb, Use the master drawings to set up your base block and foam. From the ground line (where the wheels meet the floor) build your base block and foam from that point. You will then always have the correct off-set for the wheels. If you check the images that I supplied previously you will see that the templates are set to the ground line. The thickness of the base block can be whatever you want, just inset the block into the foam to get the correct relationship. The foam should sit the same as the master drawing minus the clay thickness. Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Feb 2, 2005 9:54:34 GMT -8
Heya guys, I think I’m going to win the most stupid question contest… Today I’ve started to enlarge the different views to get the 1/10th scale…. Usually it’s very very simple thing to do, so I took the total length of the C2, changed the size of the picture on the computer, and check it was 366.6 mm…. Then I took the front view, and did the same thing with the total C2 width. Well I don’t know if it’s my eyes or something, the 2 views don’t correspond at all ! The side view is too “tall”… I have the same problems with the other views. I check the other sizes, and the numbers given on the drawing by Citroen are different from my measurements. It seems if I trust the numbers printed on the drawings I get different scales on different views. Could you confirm if I need a doctor or if I shouldn’t trust the numbers on the pictures please ? ;D Prabz is it different in India ?! Thanks Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Feb 2, 2005 12:40:02 GMT -8
Hi Seb, You will find that it's normal that most of the views will not correspond to each other when enlarged from a brochure. They are just drawn to give a quick representation. Take the side view from the brochure and enlarge to get the wheel base correct. I think you'll find that the length and the overall height will come in within a couple of millimeters. On the plan drawing use the two dimensions given (1410 and 1422) and adjust the scale to suit, this will give you the overall plan width within a couple of millimeters but the overall length will be incorrect. On the front and rear end views adjust to get the correct track size, this will also give you the correct overall width but an incorrect height. Using all the drawings you can adjust to get most of the dimension on the model correct but the most important aspect is to make sure that the balance of the model looks natural. On this exercise it isn't that important to be absolutely correct on the dimension. The most important point is to understand the process and methods used to construct and finish the model to a good standard. Steve A
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Seb
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Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Feb 2, 2005 13:16:49 GMT -8
Ok thx for your help Steve As you know I’m used to work with very precise standards, so I was a little bit confused. I’ll try again tomorrow, keeping in mind the overall look importance. I’ll let you know the results. See you Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Feb 3, 2005 9:17:10 GMT -8
OK Gentlemen, Here we have the next instalment of images. Each image shows the basic blocking in of the model using the masonite templates. The ground template is fixed to the base board with double sided tape and the bodyside template is set-up on the angle bracket with clamps.
Notice the notch in the bodyside template that runs against the ground template, this represents the bodywide point giving the correct width of the model. The same sort of procedure will be used to complete the front and rear profiles.
Here we have one bodysde dragged in, notice the absent wheel arch flares. These will be dealt with at a later stage. It's easier to run the form completely through and then add on detail at a later stage. These two images show the front and back forms dragged in. The ground templates have been made with the main curves running through without any detail. This will also be dealt with at a later stage. This set of images shows the complete blocked in form. I will provide an image showing the method used to obtain the roof and windshield shape but for now this will give you an idea as to how the model should look at this early stage. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask and I'll answer them as best that I can. Each process has many ways of execution but I will keep them as simple as possible so that everyone will understand. With experience everyone adopts their own ways and methods but the outcome for the model is the same. OK guys I'm looking for some positive feedback on your models so keep posting. Steve A
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Post by prabhat on Feb 4, 2005 4:19:31 GMT -8
Dear Steve,
I have the templates in place. I will be working ahead this weekend and will soon upload more photos.....nice stuff in the pics :-)
Prabhat
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