baiba
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by baiba on Jun 20, 2007 13:31:05 GMT -8
Hi, I´m new to this forum, as I am also new to clay modelling. I would like to have some advice from you, because I have some doubts.
* I´m planning to make a 1:5 scale car model (only a half). It is a original model, I mean it´s my own design.
* I live in the Basque Country (spain, Europe), so the clay source that I found to be the most interesting is KOLB, from Germany. They have two main clays, SUPER_CLAY (the regular one), and TEC_CLAY (a lighter sulfur-free clay). I prefer the second one (economy reasons), if somebody knows, is it OK?
*I have an quite old oven in my house, it works well, and would it be a good idea to use this for warming the clay? I would calibrate it in order to not overheating the clay. I´m thinking of those termometers used by the top-cooks, to know the exact temperature of the surface of the food, I don´t know if you know them...I will try with small pieces :-)
* I´m going to make only half a car, so I will need to use a mirror. I find that the regular mirrors create a gap between the real model and the reflected one; so is there any other material that reflects just in the contact point?(I don´t know if it´s understandable...)
* Will 20 kg be enough for half a 1:5 scale model (C-segment hatch, 4.3 m.).
* Which are the most used tools, for a beginner, having in mind that they´re going to be used in a 1:5 scale model: recommendations about: a couple of sleeks, tapes, clay planners, tools, radius curves, mouse, I don´t really know much. I don´t have plenty of money to invest...
*Finally, there is book about clay modelling at car styling mag website. Do you recomend it?
I know they´re alot of questions.
Of course, as soon as I start with the work I´ll be posting the process.
Thanks for the attention and sorry for my english
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Post by Steve Austin on Jun 21, 2007 15:41:45 GMT -8
Baiba, The Kolb TecClay would be fine to use for a scale model and 20kg should be enough for the size that you are building. Make sure to cut your foam buck as close to the size that you require. Areas that are more prone to change add a thicker layer of clay. Check out this clay comparison from my blog, www.claymodellers.claysculptors.com/2007/05/18/sulphur-free-clay-comparison/Your oven will work fine, ask the supplier of the clay for their specifications sheet so as to have the correct temperature to set your oven or get it from their website. www.kolb-nachf.de/studioline/index.php?content=e_2_3_2With using a mirror to obtain symmetry you will always have that gap because the mirror face is on the back of the glass surface. The thicker the glass the more the perceived gap. If the face of the clay that touches the glass face is blacked out of foiled it may help to reduce the obvious gap that you are viewing. Normally this is not a concern. The book on clay modeling from car styling is a good beginners book that will give you a basic understanding of the process. It is something that most modelers will purchase when they first start out and it has some good explanations but you will find that as you progress that it will be less of a reference. As far as a basic modeling kit for that size of model, you will need a selection of steels ranging in thickness from soft 0.005" to stiff 0.015" or 0.020" These will be in the form of straight steels to shaped steels (check my website) these can be made by yourself by using blue tempered spring steel, or you can purchase them. A clay rake of the curved variety as this will do a concaved surface and convexed surface where as a straight rake will only do convexed. A mid-size finisher that you could make yourself, www.claysculptors.com/finishers1.htm modeling knife for marking in lines of your design, clay plane such as a surform, www.claysculptors.com/stanley_surform_plane.htm a variety of crepe tapes 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm and masking tape for correcting lines. This is a minimal set of tools that will get the job done and you can always expand as the project progresses. Baiba just post your questions or concerns and we will work it out so you will get a good result. Best of luck, Steve
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baiba
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by baiba on Jun 25, 2007 2:22:43 GMT -8
Thanks Steve. I have some things more clear now. I´m starting with the work in 2/3 weeks, since I am building a rapid 3D model in rhino, to have some references and some rough blueprints.
The thing is that I´m not shure about the sulphur-free clays; Is it easy to obtain a good finished model?
And also I told you that my intention is to make half a model. An entire model would be the most inspirating thing, but I´m afraid not getting a perfect simmetry. Do you see it posiible, for the first time? (I´m quite perfectionist in that way), by the way what methods are used for obtaining that simetry?
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Post by Steve Austin on Jun 26, 2007 6:51:00 GMT -8
Baiba, Sulphur free clays finish as good as the sulphur based clays it's just a different filler that is used so as to comply with solders that are used in todays computer boards. Sulphur has a tendency to corrode the new solders since one of the main ingredients has been removed i.e. lead. As far as producing symmetry, you will be able to get a reasonable symmetrical model with basic tools. If the model looks like it is balanced then there is no reason to be concerned with dimensions. The main concern is to obtain pleasing aesthetics and volumes. Check out the thread "Scale Model Competition" claysculptors.proboards26.com/index.cgi?board=Competition&action=display&thread=1098597199&page=1 Here you can read and see some of the methods in producing a balanced model even though the model is incomplete but it will give you a basic overview. Steve
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baiba
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by baiba on Jul 6, 2007 11:55:25 GMT -8
Well, I decided to make the entire model, so I supous that I´ll have to prepare it better.
I don´t have foam; I think I´m going to make the model; then, I´ll make 6 7 section via rhino and will cut the profils as close to the final shape as I can, in DM wood, then mount them. It will be very heavy but thats not a problem for me. Is this method OK?
As I´m going to make the hole model, what clay quantity will be enough for a AUDI A3 type model (1:5 scale)? Could you give an aproximation of the volume needed (I believe it is the most accurate parameter, because of different densitys)?
Thanks for all, This website´s been really helpfull for me.
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Post by Steve Austin on Jul 10, 2007 7:08:34 GMT -8
Baiba, You can use whatever you want for the base armature. Although foam is preferred because you can cut it away easily if it impacts the design. As far as the amount of clay to use it will depend on the thickness. Y2Klay amounts to 65lb per cu ft. and Sulphur based clay is 90lb per cu ft. If you are going to have an inch thickness of clay (25mm) then a box would probably see you through but two boxes would be better with model development. Steve
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baiba
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by baiba on Jul 13, 2007 10:21:08 GMT -8
Hi Steve, well I finally found a foam suplier here; wood was too complicate. It is an termoisolator material called Styrodur, from BASF, and it is extruded polyestyrene. Is it suitable, or it can create air bubles on the top surface, once it´s painted?
Finally I decided to make it A5 size Lancia. I´ll post the sketches and the process soon.
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Post by Steve Austin on Jul 16, 2007 11:04:05 GMT -8
Baiba, If you have a reasonable thickness of clay there should be no problem. When you glue the polystyrene together use a light coat of spray adhesive such as 3M Super 77. If you use too heavy a coat it will melt the foam. Make sure to try on a test piece first. Steve
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baiba
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by baiba on Feb 19, 2008 12:14:48 GMT -8
HI, I finally got the time to start with this clay modell. It has ended being a Lancia Coupe (4,7 m), half a model. I will post some sketches, renders and the modelling process pictures soon.
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