FIRST THANKS FOR YOUR DEDICATION AND COMMITMENT. YOUR IMPLICATION IS INSPIRING.
THE GENEROSITY OF EVERY ONE WRITING HERE, TOO
I NEED YOUR HELP.
I READ ALL THE POSTS BUT I DIDN'T FIND (ALTHOUGH IT HELP ME VERY MUCH IN ALL OTHERS ASPECTS OF MY QUEST) AN APPROPRIATE ANSWER TO THIS HOW -TO MYSTERIOUS STEP . "THE STEP" OR " THE GATE " SHOULD I SAY. THE GATE BETWEEN THE DESIGNER AND THE CLAYMAN, I THINK.
THE GATE BETWEEN THE PERSPECTIVE DRAWINGS OR SKETCHES OF THE CAR AND THE CLAY MODEL'S STATION TEMPLATES MAKING. ... THE "CONSTRUCTION" OF THE ORTHOGRAPHIC VIEWS DRAWINGS AND/OR TAPE DRAWING AND/OR LOFTING STEP.
MORE PRECISELY; THE TECHNIQUES, THE PROCESS, THE DETAILED STEPS INVOLVED IN THE " DECONSTRUCTION " OF A PERSPECTIVE VIEW DRAWING INTO ITS ORTHOGONAL VIEWS.
THE TRADITIONAL, ANALOG WAY.
I THINK, IT IS AN IMPORTANT PHASE IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE A START -UP CLAY MODEL AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE IN REGARD OF THE FIRST APPROVED PRESENTATION SKETCHES. A SOLID CORE TO WORK FROM, FOR FURTHER REFINEMENT RESPECTING THE INITIAL FEELING, SPIRIT OF THE CHOSEN DESIGN PERSPECTIVE DRAWINGS.
LOTS OF TIME SPENT SEARCHING ON THE WEB ON THIS SUBJECT, UNSUCCESSFULLY ,TILL NOW, I HOPE.
Post by Steve Austin on Jan 17, 2006 22:16:52 GMT -8
Yes indeed, the steps to take from the initial master sketch to the beginnings of the scale model.
Firstly, in most automotive companies there is a set package drawing for the particular design that the vehicle is intended. Once your sketch has been approved by the management and the intent is to produce a scale model, the designers job is to create a tape drawing as such over the package drawing to represent his or her sketch. You may find that to capture your design that you will violate the package drawing in several areas to capture the essence of your sketch. In the first instance this probably will not matter too much as the management will just want to see the 2D sketch in 3D form.
You will as a designer produce a tape drawing in three views, side, plan and front/rear end views. It is important to make sure that the tapes stack up with each other in all views to ensure the building of the model is correct. I am obviously talking in the traditional manner of making scale models without the use of computer software.
The tapes will reflect overall length, overall width, overall height, wheel base, front and rear track, all feature lines, section through body wide, front section, rear section just to name a few. These tapes will enable you to produce a blocked in 3D model just to get the proportions of your sketch.
Once the initial form is blocked in, then it is a designer and a modeler working together to refine the form. During this period there will be a lot of changes and rethink of design elements, various small templates made to capture features and shapes. It is also important that during this period that the vehicle has a set of scale wheels and tires in place to properly assess the proportions.
The visual aspect of the model should correspond to the sketch, once you have achieved that then you can paint or cast off of that model.
This is a very brief description of the process and can be further explained with more detailed or specific questions.
WHAT I HAVE IN MIND WAS MORE LIKE A DOCUMENT, A DETAILED TUTORIAL LIKE THE ONE YOU HAVE DONE FOR THE MAKING OF THE CLAY MODEL.
A TUTORIAL THAT WILL BRING US FROM A CONCEPT THROUGH THE DECONSTRUCTION OF THE SKETCHES PERSPECTIVE VIEW TO THE FINAL CONSTRUCTION OF THE ORTHOGRAPHIC VIEWS FROM WHICH THE TAPE DRAWING IS FINALLY DONE.
THEN WE WILL HAVE THE WHOLE PICTURE OF THE PROCESS FROM THE IDEA TO THE COMPLETED SCALE MODEL
I DON'T KNOW IF SUCH A DOCUMENT OR TUTORIAL EXIST OLD OR NEW FROM COLLEGES ,ORGANIZATIONS OR MANUFACTURERS BUT IT WILL BE A SHAME THAT ALL THOSE TECHNIQUES VANISHES OR JUST SINK INTO OBLIVION WITH OUR LOVED ONES BECAUSE OF OUR "DON'T LOOK BACK" ATTITUDE VS THE PROGRESS. BLINDNESS DUE TO THE GLITTERING OF THE FULGARATING DEVELOPMENT AND PROMISES OF THE NEW CADCAM WORLD.
FURTHERMORE, EVERYBODY CAN AFFORD THOSES TECHNIQUES… EYES, HANDS, RULES, PEN, PAPER, CLAY, STEELS, WIRES, AND… ALL THE FREE TIME THEY COULD GET.
Post by Steve Austin on Jan 19, 2006 9:01:17 GMT -8
I'm not sure that I fully understand what you are asking for.
The initial idea that is put to paper by the designer as a simple sketch is then evolved until the design is satisfactory for the designer. That sketch is then translated over the engineering package drawing to meet most of the criteria. From that, the model is created and at a later stage detailed information is taken from the scale model as in point information or cloud data for the engineering department to analyze the impact of the design on the engineering criteria. From this stage a more comprehensive drawing will be created showing the model outline over the packaging with recommendations for model changes so as to be more compliant to todays regulations.
That does not mean that all engineering criteria has to be met, this is where the design engineers work to resolve the issues with the designer to achieve a satisfactory compromise without losing the essence of the initial sketch.
So as far as sections from the model, I guess that would come at the second stage where most of the development has been done and the design is more resolved. Essentially a lot of this is ironed out at the full size clay development stage where you are working in real life terms.
Hi Steve, What is the scale of the clay model at this stage? and what level would you bring the finished surface to... paint, dinoc? I've heard of clay surfaces can be treated or slick with turpentine or WD40? At the full size development stage, what is the density of foam ( 12# 20# urethane foam?) used for the armature? Would the clay modeler also be the person responsible to create the armature or with the help of the CAD/CAM group? Thanks for your time. Kely,
Post by Steve Austin on Apr 7, 2006 12:36:32 GMT -8
To answer the first part of your question, most designs start out in scale form, anywhere from 1/5th scale to as much as 1/2 scale. The general size is 1/4 to 1/3 scale so that the proportions can be evaluated sufficiently, also when the model is increased to full-size the form isn't too cartoon like.
You would treat the scale model just like the full size model going through various stages of dress, from dinoc reviews to full blown jewelery models with all the details in hard form. The initial model would be in dinoc dress to assess the overall proportions and brand identity. Once the design intent is made the model may go to the next level with all detail parts such as head lamps, tail lamps, grille, door handles etc; as presented to a board of directors. The main body would either be color dinoc with a hard shell of clear-coat, or polyester primer and blocked down before applying an automotive paint and clear-coat.
Your question about using turpentine or WD40 on the clay surface is in my opinion bad modeling habits. For one the turpentine and WD40 melts the surface of the clay into a thin slurry giving it an overall color which to some people is more appealing, any crisp features would be softened or even lost. The fact that it destroys the hard work in developing the surface in one easy swipe negates the point in using it. If in fact it is used and an additional layer of clay is needed, the contaminated clay has to be cut back to enable the new layer to adhere to the old.
For me the best use of turpentine is to clean the surface plate.
When the model goes to the full-size development stage the armature is build by model shop personnel if in an OEM studio such as GM or Ford or by the sculpting staff if in an independent studio. I have built bucks from package drawing all the way through to finished clay model, it all depends on where you are working at the time.
The density of the foam is between 10lb and 15lb, it needs to be firm enough so that it doesn't disintegrate with pressure and with an open cell so that the clay will cling to it on the first layer without delaminating. The foam that I am most familiar with is a white Styrofoam board by Dow Industries which I have found to be more than suitable. It easily glues together with Gorilla Glue (www.gorillaglue.com/home.htm) and is nice and stable.