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Post by fastback33 on Oct 4, 2004 18:57:46 GMT -8
Ok, i have a question, what aobut the wheels i have. I was under the impression that iw as suppose to attach them to the side??
Now that i think about it, i was supposed to cut the wood to the wheel base, and inner wheel wells. I have done this but now your new illustation has confused me.
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 4, 2004 21:50:02 GMT -8
OK fastback33, Now that I have your attention, you are absolutely correct, the wheels will rest against the base plinth. What I have done on the illustration is fill in the wheel wells during the process of dragging in the bodyside and the side glass. At a later stage and when I've got the sketch done we will be cutting in the wheel openings. I could have left the wheel openings open but you would have found that the clay keeps tearing off during the dragging process. It's easier to fill in and cut out later. Give me a few days and I'll have an illustration of front and rear end blocking-in, wheel opening development and explanations of the process. Steve A
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Post by fastback33 on Oct 5, 2004 19:40:37 GMT -8
So, should i make the clay over lap the wooden plynth for now, until i cut out the clay later??
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 6, 2004 7:49:47 GMT -8
Fastback33, You can overlap the plinth with clay while you drag in the bodyside or if you know the positions or your wheel openings you can clay just past the opening and trim out later. Like I said in the previous post you may get some tear-out as you drag-in the bodyside. Work the template either side of the wheel opening so as to eliminate as much of the tear-out as you can. Steve A
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 8, 2004 14:26:24 GMT -8
Ok Everyone, If you have been following the tutorial that is in progress for Fastback 33 and you have also been doing the stages with Fastback, don’t be shy in posting any questions that you may have. The beauty of having this forum on the website is that it should be interactive, participation is what drives it and learning is all about participation. This will also give people the opportunity to voice an opinion, or to resolve any issues, before we continue to the next stage. Steve A
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Post by prabhat on Oct 12, 2004 10:54:20 GMT -8
I have been following this tutorial closely. i am a student of Product Design in India. I have ben given the responsibilty of setting up the Styling Clay Studio in our College and was looking for information on the web when I came across this forum. I wish to thank you Steve for providing such an informative step- by-step tutorial.
I need to construct a clay oven for keeping the styling clay warm; Any suggestions.
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 12, 2004 21:55:06 GMT -8
Hi Prabhat, Welcome to this forum, you will find a lot of useful information that has been posted by the members so take your time and research them. Seb has posted pictures of his clay oven that he has made, very ingenious but you will probably need something that is a little more robust and adheres to your safety regulations. I have experience in using heated holding cabinets which are used in commercial food operations. These cabinets are of stainless steel construction with full magnetic door seals. The small image that I've included shows basically what the oven looks like. They are available as single stand alone units or stackable, or as a double size unit. [/img][/center] If you go to the website www.hennypenny.com Navigate, products-heated holding cabinets (floor), you will be able to download the PDF file on the various ovens. There are several International Distributors in India, hopefully you will find the addresses still valid. Alshwarya Trust Complex,10 OVG Road Basavanagudi Bangalore 560004 Telephone: (91)-80-667-7576 Fax: (91)-80-667-7576
International Refrigeration Corp. 7 Netaji Subhash Marg Darya Ganj New Delhi 110002 Telephone: 91-11-3275651 Fax: 91-11-6221827
If you get in touch with the distributor they may have a demostration model at a favorable price. For the trays to support the clay in the oven, use stainless steel cookie pans. The temperature should be set from 140F-150F, adjust the temperature to suit after you have warmed the first batch of clay (Chavant, I'm assuming) You may find that clay left in the oven for long periods of warming will form a hard crust. This is due to the oils being removed, therefore make sure that you rotate the clay in the oven, i.e use the oldest clay first. Let me know how you fare and if you or your colleagues have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask. Best of luck, Steve A
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Seb
Full Member
Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Oct 13, 2004 13:35:15 GMT -8
Welcome on board Prabhat Indeed you can follow Steeve's advices. Because of safety regulations, you will prefer to use the heated holding cabinets which are used in commercial food operations. A self made oven is pretty easy to build and works just as well but the safety regulations issue then become a problem. It will be more expensive, but it should not be a problem assuming it will be paid by your school. Remember that clay modeling is not a magic thing, there are no secrets it is only a chemical product. So once you have understood what you want to do with it ( heating, sculpting, making it workable etc ...) it's often easy to come up with less expensive solutions. Steeve's tool making tutorials are the perfect example. Nice to meet people from all around the world ;D ;D See you Seb
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 14, 2004 8:21:22 GMT -8
Ok fastback33, As there was no response to the post “if you have any questions from the previous stage…”, I will assume everything is good to go. Take a look at the new illustration; there are three processes that have been sketched in. 1. Ground template for the front and profile section for the front end.To make the ground template for the front, overlay tracing paper on your plan drawing. Start by marking on the centerline then trace the profile. Complete the plan template by duplicating the shape around the centerline. Provide a line at 90° to the centerline. This will enable the template to be aligned on your modeling board by the centerline and the perpendicular line. Take the tracing paper and mount to a suitable material such as 1/8” Masonite or hardboard. Use spray adhesive to fix to the Masonite, cut-out the shape and sand the profile smooth. On your modeling board mark the overall length of the model on the centerline. Fix your front ground template to the modeling board with double sided tape or carpet tape using the centerline and perpendicular line to position correctly. To make the profile section of the front end, overlay tracing paper on the side view drawing. Mark the base line on first (modeling board surface). Mark a vertical line from the furthest point (centerline of front end) down to the base line. At this point the front end template will be notched-out to run against the plan template (see illustration) Complete the tracing by copying the profile of the front end at the centerline. You will notice on the illustration that the fender line is higher than the centerline profile, the fender development will be dealt with at a later stage. Mark a secondary vertical line sufficient to allow for clamping or screwing to an angle bracket or block. Glue the traced profile to 1/8” Masonite and cut-out the profile, file and sand smooth. Cut-out the notch that will align the profile perfectly to the centerline (see illustration) Set the template up against the ground plan board so that the notch is hard up against the template, clamp or screw into place. Apply your warm clay to the model in small amounts and drag the template around the ground template removing any excess clay. Eventually you will have a front end profile dragged in (check the process on the illustration) [/img][/center] 2. Wheel arch profile template.Overlay tracing paper onto the side view drawing and mark-on the base line first, pencil on a vertical centerline, (this is the centerline of front wheel) Next mark on the outline of the wheel opening, glue the tracing paper onto ½” plywood with spray adhesive and cut-out the template, sand smooth to the line. With the wheel arch template cut-out, line it up with the centerline of the front wheel. With a couple of straight pieces of wood or Masonite, line up to the edges of the template, parallel to the centerline of wheel. These will be the guides for the wheel arch template. Fix the guides into position with double sided tape, check the position , the centerline of the wheel arch template should line up with the centerline marked on the modeling board. To keep the template vertical, fix a block of wood to it with double sided tape, do not glue as the same template will be used for the opposite side. Slide the wheel arch template up to the clay and scribe the profile on to the surface. Cut most of the material away with a gouge, then push the template into the wheel arch. The guides will ensure that the wheel arch is cut in square. If the clay tears out it is easy to repair, just add warm clay and push the template through. The end result should look like the rear wheel arch on the illustration. If the rear wheel arch profile is different to the front just make a new template the same way as described for the front. The procedure is exactly the same, apply this procedure to all wheel arches. 3. Rear ground template and profile section for the rear end.The procedure is exactly the same as for the front end. Trace off the ground plan, make the ground plan template for the rear end. Mark the overall length for the rear end onto your modeling board and then fix the ground template to the modeling board. Make sure that the centerline lines up. Trace the profile for the rear end drag template, mount to 1/8” Masonite , cut-out, file and sand smooth. Don’t forget to notch out for running against the plan template. Mount to an angle bracket or block, apply warm clay to the model and drag in the rear end section. Once this procedure is completed the model should be fully blocked in. The next stage will be refining each area and adding details. If you run into problems, post your questions so that we can address the issues. Steve A
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Post by fastback33 on Oct 14, 2004 13:59:12 GMT -8
ok, i have a question with these new templates. SHould i drag the front and back along the front and the back of the clay? Or should i set it onto the clay and shape it??
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Post by fastback33 on Oct 14, 2004 14:02:46 GMT -8
Nevermind, i re-read it and figured it out.
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Post by prabhat on Oct 15, 2004 5:35:37 GMT -8
most probably i too will be constructing one of my own. i am an electronics engineer by profeesion so assembling one will not be such a great deal of problem and our school encourages ingineous products. im thinking of making one from a heat convector.
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 15, 2004 7:19:03 GMT -8
Hi Prabhat, Good luck, post some pictures and let us know how the progress goes with your clay oven construction. Did you check out the website for Henny Penny and are the addresses still valid? Steve A
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Seb
Full Member
Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Oct 15, 2004 10:02:37 GMT -8
Hi Prabhat, if it can help check this link to see photos of my oven : www.hostyldesigns.com/pages/Untitled-1.htmIt's really basic but works great. If you have some ideas to put a regulation temperature system I may be interested. With my actual "system", the temperature is pretty regular although I prefer to stay near the oven for safety reasons. I wouldn't want to burn the clay........or the house ! Speak to you. Seb
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Seb
Full Member
Posts: 101
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Post by Seb on Oct 15, 2004 10:37:11 GMT -8
Steeve, to come back to the original topic ;D I'm still in my idea of producing one side until I'm satisfied with the result. And only then dulicate it on the other side. Maybe it's more a method for the form development stage.It also means the drawing is just a starting point. I guess the templates will be different. Not Dragging type. Fix templates for sure. Do you think this way is a good way or not ? I was also thinking about "simplify" the shape you want to get by using the plane method ( used in art sculpture ) ... Then you soft the edges and develop curves etc... There are many ways to sculpt. What about if you find your perfect way and it's different compared to other modelers ? Is it a big deal to adjust yourself when you get a job in a studio or is it just a matter of days, to work efficiently with your colleagues ( assuming you're a good modeler in the first place ) ? Maybe these questions sound stupid in this computer generated era... See you ! Seb
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