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Post by fastback33 on Sept 7, 2004 11:55:17 GMT -8
Hello, I'm new to modelling with clay. I have tons of clay but no skill whatsoever with shaping and sculpting it. (it is much harder than it seems, for me anyways) Would someone like to help me out. Like tell me the process of building a clay model. I have the dimensions of a 1/18 scale model of my own design. WOuld someone tell me how i go aobut doing this?? I know i make a template background of the basic shape of the car to work off of. Anything important? How do i get it ready for paint?
thankyou very much for your time!!!
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Post by Steve Austin on Sept 7, 2004 13:56:26 GMT -8
Hi fastback33, I'm all for jumping in the deep end but first let's check to see what you have learnt to do this job. There is a lot of information on this forum from other participants, also the website covers a lot of information as to the type of tools required. First checkout all the postings, there may be information that you can use to get you going, next read the information on my website, use the content page to navigate. For the size of scale model that you are making, the amount of tools will be minimal. A couple of small scrapers can be made from silverware ( see Finishers Unique on the website) You will also need a couple of steels to obtain a good surface finish. You might be able to get the steels from your local art supply, such as Kemper tools. The technique section of the website is still in progress at the moment so once I know that you have some tools to get your job going we'll get into the actual process of making the scale model. I need to know what tools you have to do the scale model so that you can be guided in the right direction. By making or buying the tools to do the model you are automatically thinking about the end result. Let me know what tools you have and we'll go from there. Steve A
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 8, 2004 19:34:48 GMT -8
Steve, I have everything i will need, except steelies, which i believe i can make on my own. Sorry about not searching the site, but i have been turning the internet upside down trying to find help with this. But thankyou bery much for wanting to help me out!!
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 9, 2004 19:03:51 GMT -8
Ok so i searched the site, there weren't any real steps, only just small prep work. Am i not looking in the right places?? Also would you mind listing the steps for me, i am going to be busy later on in the year and would love to get going sometime soon. BTW Thanks for your helP!!!
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Post by Steve Austin on Sept 9, 2004 21:10:29 GMT -8
Ok fastback33, One thing you have got to understand is, 99% of the work is preparation. The site at present is designed for guys like yourself who haven't got a clue as to the amount of work that is involved in producing a quality clay model, so listen up and we'll get going. Checkout the illustration that I've created using your model information. The first thing to do is to make a modeling platform from 3/4" plywood. The size should be about 4" bigger than the finished model on all sides. This will allow you to work the model and still have grid lines visible for duplication. Mark-out the board with a suitable grid, such as every 1" or 25.0mm, marking the center line of the board first then grid either side. Then mark the grid for the length of the board next. Make a plywood plinth that is as long as your distance for the wheel centers (wheel base). The width should be as wide as the inside of the tires. This allows for the wheels to be butted up against the wooden plinth during modeling and the length will not interfere with any ground plans, front and rear. Fix the plinth to the modeling platform with double sided tape. This will allow you to remove the model when you are finished. When you have this process complete, glue your foam and clay block on top of the wooden plinth using a 5 minute epoxy mix. Make sure it is centered both ways to the plinth. Also make sure that the glue doesn't spill over onto the modeling board otherwise you'll never remove your model. If you look at your sketches you may have noticed that I've sweetened the lines using french curves. It may pay you to do the same as you will be using these drawings as the master guide. The plan drawing needs to be completed and should relate to the overall width of the model. You will also need four wheels and tires and the size should be reflected in your side view drawing. By putting the wheels and tires on the side view you can determine whether the vehicle has too much ground clearance and if the overall proportions look correct. Well I think this is enough information for you to progress with for right now. Once you have completed this stage let me know and we'll go from there. Post a photograph of your progress here or in your portfolio so that we can make corrections if there are any problems. Steve A
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 12, 2004 13:58:45 GMT -8
OK, I have done all of that, now what?? Do i start sculpting and get the basic out line of the car??
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Post by claychat on Sept 13, 2004 6:31:40 GMT -8
Hello Fastback,
This thread is getting very interesting and I think you will get a lot of good info out of it but it would be a lot more interesting if you keep us up to date with photographs of your progress. Steve would also have more idea which way you want to go with your model and be able to help you more. I am looking forward to seeing your progress in the future, best of luck.
Jeff
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 13, 2004 20:57:59 GMT -8
Yeah, I have plans to do that, but i have "missplaced" my battery charger for my digital camera. As soon as I find that, i will post up pics.
However i ran into one small problem. I don't fully understand the part about glueing the styrofoam onto the wheel base block?? or glue the wheel base block onto the grid board. Also I couldn't find the kind of grid board, so i did it my own way with a ruler and such. Hopefully it isn't off by very much.
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Post by Steve Austin on Sept 14, 2004 7:00:01 GMT -8
Fastback33, Make sure that you read the post until you fully understand the procedure. You did the right thing by marking out the grid on the modeling board. That is exactly what was said in the post, " mark-out the board with a suitable grid, such as every 1" or 25.0mm." This board is always hand marked out when using plywood. If you look at the illustration, it shows the block that supports the model, set-up on the modeling board. First use double sided tape or carpet tape to fix the block into position (as per illustration) Make sure that it is centered around the centerline of the modeling board. With the block in position, glue your styrofoam onto that block making sure that the glue doesn't run over the edges. You will then have the block glued underneath your styrofoam to keep it in position while you model but you will be able to remove the model from your modeling board after it is finished because it is only fixed to the modeling board with carpet tape. Hopefully this explains the procedure clearly. Steve A
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Post by Steve Austin on Sept 14, 2004 14:52:33 GMT -8
Ok fastback33, Now that we have your foam and clay block attached to the modeling table we can progress to the next stage. Take a look at the new illustration, you will notice that I've produced an additional front view so that I can guide you through the next process. Place tracing paper over your side view, tape it in place with masking tape. Mark on the horizontal line beneath the wheels first, next trace the complete outline of your vehicle. From the edge of the front and rear bumper before it tucks under, pencil on vertical lines down to the ground line. Mark on the center line of the wheels. www.claysculptors.com/model block[/img] With the outline complete, glue the tracing paper to a piece of 1/8" masonite or hardboard using spray adhesive such as 3M Super 77. Before cutting out the shape, tape a second piece of masonite under the first piece with double sided tape or carpet tape. This way you can cut both templates at the same time. Make sure to transfer the centerline for the wheels onto the second piece of masonite. Cut the shape out to the tracing paper, keeping the ground line flat and the lines off of the bumpers vertical. Use a sanding block to clean the lines of the template. Once the template is finished seperate both pieces of masonite giving you two identical templates. To hold the templates vertical use a 1/2" x 1" piece of plywood the length of the template. Fix the template to the plywood strip with small nails or glue the strip on with wood glue. On your modeling board mark-out the wheel base or wheel center lines on both sides of the styrofoam block (see illustration, centerline front and rear wheel) Align the two templates onto your modeling board using the wheel centerlines as your reference. They should be set 1" clear of the widest part of the model, then screwed down or taped down with carpet tape. Your set-up should be the same as the illustration. Next, place tracing paper over the front view and pencil a horizontal line at the center of the roof, mark-on the vertical centerline. Next trace the section of the roof profile and extend the curve beyond the width of the vehicle on each side. Measure the inside width of the side profile templates fixed to the modeling board, for example, if the dimension is 8", mark either side of the centerline on the roof template 4". This gives you a section of the roof profile that is the inside width of the side profile templates.(see front illustration) Take the tracing paper and glue to a piece of masonite, cut out to the roof curve and notch-out at the inside width mark to the horizontal line of the center of roof. (Study the front view illustration with roof section template) With the side profile templates in place and the template for the roof section complete, add clay to your model and use the roof template to drag the shape onto the model. The notch of the roof template should sit onto the side profile templates and as you add clay, drag the roof template along, removing any excess clay. Use this one template to get a shape on the hood, wind shield, roof, rear glass and trunk. Even though the shape on the hood and trunk may be higher than it is supposed to be it is a starting point. The front and rear glass can also be revised later, the roof is the one correct area. I know that there is a lot of information to understand right now but just keep studying the sketches and re-reading the information until you make progress. Steve A
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 18, 2004 20:23:22 GMT -8
Ok, so my computer crashed and im not able to post pics at very soonest possible time would be wednesday, maybe. I will follow your instructions though. I'll take pictures of the next step aswell. Thanks for your time and reply's!!
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 22, 2004 18:12:14 GMT -8
alright, im finished. Sorry i still haven't been able to take some decent pics. My camera is broken so i had to use this crappy one and, don't have it anymore. I can upload the images if you want but they aren't of the templates. Just board and car.
I'd like to move on though, steve. So what is the next step!!?!
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Post by fastback33 on Sept 24, 2004 18:20:46 GMT -8
Aye, steve?
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Post by Steve Austin on Sept 29, 2004 21:44:33 GMT -8
Ok fastback33, You'll have to be patient for a couple of days so that I can get the illustration squared away. The more that we get involved in this project the longer it takes to sketch the next stage and don't forget this is only my free time that is dedicated to this forum board and website. The next stage will be dragging in the bodyside, don't forget the original sketches that you had, have very little information to go with, so we're developing as we go. When you can, post some pictures so that we can correct any problems that you have. Anyway I should have the next installment by friday. Keep posted, Steve A
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Post by Steve Austin on Oct 1, 2004 7:18:16 GMT -8
Ok Fastback33, Here is the next installment of the modeling tutorial. By now you should have the basic hood, windshield, roof, back light and trunk dragged in. Take a good look at the illustration so that you will fully understand the next process. [/img][/center] From your plan view master drawing make a bodywide template that covers the main body shape, do not include any fender flares that you may have, these will be a seperate issue. Extend the lines beyond the front and rear. To do this, use tracing paper to trace the the main form, also mark on the position of the modeling plinth. When making the template you will be notching out the plinth area from the template so that it sits around the modeling plinth. The reason for this is so that the template doesn't move when dragging in the side profile. Make the bodywide template from 1/4" masonite or hardboard and mark on the centerlines of the front and rear wheels. Use spray mount or Super 77 to glue the tracing paper to the masonite. Cut out the template and sand to the lines to form a crisp edge. These lines together with the notch in the template will position the template in the correct place. On the modeling board place a couple of marks that will indicate the position of the template.(Get the dimensions from the plan view drawing) With all this preparation you will find that the plan template will position easily, fix the template into position with double sided tape or carpet tape. Overlay tracing paper onto your end view, mark the ground line first then square a line from the widest point of the body down to the ground line. This line will be the point of contact to the plan template. Continue by marking the section profile of the bodywide, extend the lines beyond the roof line and beyond the rocker. At the ground line, mark a line 1/4" parallel to the ground, to intersects with the bodywide line. Here you will notch out the bodywide template so that it runs against the plan template (Check the end view illustration) Spray mount the tracing paper onto 1/4" masonite and cut the template to suit and once again sand to the lines to form a crisp edge. With the plan template in position, fix the bodywide template to an angle bracket or a piece of 2"x 4". This will keep the template square and in a vertical position. Apply clay and run the bodywide template along the plan template giving you a basic blocked in side profile. This procedure can be repeated for the other side by flopping the plan template. Make sure to transfer the centerlines for the front and rear wheels as these lines are used to position the template. Once you have completed this stage we can think about the front and rear end. Steve A
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